Bow & Bridge Violin and bow makers, as the old books printed them

Scan 122

An Encyclopedia of the Violin, 1925

16 lines. Read by computer on 28 September 2026. Printed page 96. See the scan on archive.org.

11/6 of an inch of elevation above the sound board which has already been recommended.
3If, when verifying the back slant, the rule rises higher than 28 millimeters (1 1/6") one should take the knife and remove a little of the wood in the hollow from the blocks at the side of the sound board, and once more test with the rule until the exact height desired has been secured. If the rule does not quite rise to the height indicated, a little wood should be cut away from the hollow on the side on which the nut of the sound board is placed. It might be remarked that this operation is a very delicate one, and that if it is not carried out well, it will exert a sensible influence on the tone quality of the instrument.
5Before glueing the neck into its hollow, one must make certain that it is perfectly straight. In order to do this take a walnut rule no more than about 3 millimeters (1/8") thick, so that it is capable of being bent. This rule should be placed on the pencil line which has been drawn on the sound board, and on the center line of the neck, in order to ascertain whether it inclines to one side or the other. If such be the case, the slant is remedied by cutting away a little of the wood in the hollow at the side which it is necessary to deepen, in order to ensure straightness. After that, all that remains to be done is to glue it.
7To do so, take a clamp, open it to the desired extent, then lay it on the workbench, ready to hand, for later use. Then cut a wedge of cork, 12 millimeters (1/2") thick by 56 millimeters (2 1/8") long and 28 millimeters (little over 1") broad. This wedge of cork is intended to be placed cross-wise under the nut and the blocks of the sound board, to receive the screw button of the clamp, and prevent its causing strain or wrenching when the vise is tightened.
9These preparations at an end, the brush is used to cover the entire interior of the hollow with glue before attempting to fit in the neck, and the piece of cork is put in place. Under the nut and the block the screw button of the clamp is rested against the cork, and the screw handle on the flat surface of the neck at its extremity, while the neck is tightly pressed, supporting it with the left hand in order to prevent its turning aside from the hollow. The remnants of glue are then washed away with hot water and a brush, and the violin is put in a place where it can dry.
11It might be mentioned that when the sound board of the instrument has been constructed of two pieces of wood, it is unnecessary to trace the pencil line which has already been mentioned down its center, since the jointure of the two pieces itself supplies the line.
13During wet weather it is well to heat the neck a little, and this is done by holding it to the fire before introducing it in the hollow. This is the best way to ensure quick drying of the glue.
15It is also well to make a number of small holes with the point of the

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