Bow & Bridge Violin and bow makers, as the old books printed them

Scan 117

The Violin: A concise exposition of the general principles of construction.., 1871

2 lines. Read by computer on 28 September 2026. No printed page number was found. See the scan on archive.org.

1the margin of the back and breast, the interior wood is afterwards to be cleanly cut out with a chisel-sharpened awl, as in Fig. 26. The indenting groove must be cut gradually and carefully, never allowing the tool to tear the wood or slip from the proper place. At the parts of the back and breast opposite to the extremities of the neck where the indenting tool does not reach, two pencil lines may be drawn through the spaces, and the groove cut to lines with a thin pointed penknife, and the wood cut out as previously. The small strips of indenting are to be had at the shop of the musical-instrument dealer, and may be obtained at a trifling cost. They are to be fitted and glued into the grooves with thin glue, and, when dry, cut down to the surface of the violin—the scooped out part is now finished, and the edges reduced to their proper thickness. At this stage of the work the violin is usually cleaned and varnished, but, for the present, we shall complete the mechanical part of the work, viz., the finger-board, nut, &c. The finger-board is formed of ebony, and a model of such—as shewn in Fig. 27—should be made from that of some well made instrument. A piece of ebony being obtained of the proper dimensions, the outside parts are to be dressed with the plane, the hollow surfaces scooped out with gouges, and the whole finished with glass-paper and glued upon the neck of the instrument. The following dimensions of the finger-board may serve as a mean:—Length, 10 in.; breadth at lower end, 1 7/8 in.; and at the upper

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