Books › The violin, how to make it, 1880 › scan 146
Scan 146
The violin, how to make it, 1880
2 lines. Read by computer on 3 September 2026. Printed page 140. See the scan on archive.org.
1color is produced, or a small quantity of alcohol may be used separately to extract the coloring matter, which may be made of a deep intensity. This can afterwards be mixed with the varnish until the proper color is arrived at, observing that every coating of varnish adds a perceptible depth of color to the preceding one. Madder and logwood are sometimes used for the various shades of brown. Some Violin-makers adopt quite a different method of coloring their instruments; thus, instead of coloring the varnish, they stain the Violin with the liquid stain or color, and afterwards apply a light-colored varnish. The foregoing spirituous extracts would give such stains, or merely watery infusions of several of the substances laid on hot. Stephen's wood-stains have also been used for the same purpose, but the Violins finished by this method have always a painted appearance, and can be easily recognized from those which have been finished with the color in the varnish, as by this latter means a certain transparency and harmony of color is obtained, which never can be produced by the application of a wash or stain to the surface. The amateur will require but few tools in the operation of varnishing, viz., a few brushes, tripoli-powder, or fine glass-paper, oil, etc., The brushes, if for spirit-varnishing, may be flat camel-hair ones. Those vary in size, being from a quarter of an inch to five inches and upwards in breadth. A brush an inch in diameter will be found large enough for general purposes, whilst a small camel or sable brush may be used for varnishing the scroll work of the hand, but the former brush, if carefully used, will answer for the whole manipulation. The brushes, after being used, may be dipped in methylated spirit, and afterwards pressed out between the thumb and finger, when they may be laid aside in a closely-fitting tin box. By this method they will be rendered clean, and adapted for instant use at any required time, as if this final washing is neglected, the brushes get quite hard, and the amateur will experience some difficulty in getting them properly cleaned, and even when they are so, the hairs have a tendency to get broken or loosened, and such loose hairs are certain to attach themselves to the first coatings of varnish. Care should be taken not to flood the brush with varnish, to spread the coating freely, lightly, and pretty quickly, as the varnish soon dries; to pass the
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