Bow & Bridge Violin and bow makers, as the old books printed them

Books › Violin making, 1902 › scan 144

Scan 144

Violin making, 1902

6 lines. Read by computer on 3 September 2026. Printed page 86. See the scan on archive.org.

1that, I roughly mark the shape and thickness of the wood up to which I have to cut away, to insure nice handling. To this line I cut with bow saw 68; and I then use all the knives I have, and many files—rasps in the early stages—until I get to the shape I want, after which I wet with a sponge, renewing the work when dry with finer files and glass paper, No. 1 1/2, making a second stage, then wet again, to two more stages, when all should be very clean and nice. Of course, I round the fingerboard's edges somewhat, and clean on each occasion of wetting. When finished, the neck should measure round thick end (one and a half inches from extreme end of wood), three and a half inches; and round thin end (one inch from peg box) three inches. This finishes the neck, which is now ready for insertion in the violin.
3I have, above, treated of this: I now do it actually. I have wood guard 31 ready for protection of fingerboard, and 32, for the back, and one of No. 11 cramps. I dab the neck and the cutting with hot strong glue, and gently work them together, until the glue oozes out at all points, when I put on the wood guards and clamp hard. Then I wash the superflous glue away with a sponge wrung out of hot water, after I have tested whether I have got in the neck straight and at its correct angle. (See fig. 27.)
5But there is the neat finishing off of the neck and button, which I attend to carefully, when all is set hard on the following day, paying much heed to grace and character here, as it is a part of the fiddle which cries

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