Bow & Bridge Violin and bow makers, as the old books printed them

Scan 126

Violin making and repairing, 1927

6 lines. Read by computer on 18 September 2026. No printed page number was found. See the scan on archive.org.

1the button, if not altogether destroyed, must be preserved on this inside marked half-circle, because, as in common with all repairing work, the marker's idea must not be interfered with. If the button outline is destroyed the repairer must carry out his drawing with regard to the best traditions on the subject and obtain, if possible, a fine violin which will give him the correct shape. Roughly speaking, the width is slightly greater at the base of the button than its height, and this proportion must be observed in inlaying the ebony rim.
3When the half-circle is satisfactorily marked, a keen-edged chisel may be employed to cut away the outside wood to the level of the shoulder of the neck. The cutting must be perfectly at right angles to the face of the button all round, and must be a perfect sweep. When cut, take an outline of the edge by placing a blank piece of paper over it and rubbing the fingers along the edge. This pattern must be transferred down to a flat slip of ebony or rosewood of a thickness a little greater than the button and large enough to enable the repairer to trim round to the correct outline. Cut away the inside portion of the ebony, fit accurately and truly into its place round the edge of the button, and when everything is correct and the fit perfectly satisfactory, warm the ebony and glue home.
5It may be necessary to use half-round files to fit the ebony truly into its place, and for taking out the inside piece a fretsaw is very useful. Take care when working the ebony to avoid splintering the wood, as it is very brittle and easily broken. When the ebony is

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