Books › Violin making and repairing, 1927 › scan 141
Scan 141
Violin making and repairing, 1927
8 lines. Read by computer on 18 September 2026. No printed page number was found. See the scan on archive.org.
1It may be necessary to pull out and reinsert the blade several times, working backwards or forwards as the case demands. Do not use more force than is absolutely necessary, as it is very easy to split the plate of an old tinder-dry violin. Be especially careful at the corners, as these will break away on the slightest provocation, and then there will be two repairs instead of one to undertake.
3When the belly is off, it is a simple matter to apply studs on any part of the surface inside, but it must be noted that the fewer studs used the better. Every additional stud means so much lost power (interference with rhythmical vibrations), and as a rule two or three are ample for the purpose. If the crack to be repaired is in the direct line of the soundpost, the operator must be specially sparing with studs, and must not place them at all near that fitment; the glue alone must hold the crack together in that region.
5The Bass-Bar.—While the fiddle is open it is as well to attend to the interior fittings, which are very important. First and foremost in importance is the bass-bar, a narrow-shaped strip of pine cut on the quarter which will be found glued to the belly, and extending down the inside of the table parallel with the left sound-hole. There are also four corner blocks, head and tail blocks and twelve strips of pine termed "linings," which are glued in position round the top and bottom of the ribs.
7The exact functions of the bass-bar have long been in dispute. It governs the tone of the two lower strings of the violin, and when in its correct
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