Books › Violin making and repairing, 1927 › scan 31
Scan 31
Violin making and repairing, 1927
6 lines. Read by computer on 18 September 2026. No printed page number was found. See the scan on archive.org.
1make the two saw-cuts in the top block, and the hole for the tail pin in the bottom block. It is easier to do this now than after the body is together. At the junction of the lower ribs at the bottom of the fiddle body (which must now be removed from the mould), and half-way between the face and the back, a small hole must be carefully drilled through the block from the outside of the ribs. A woodworker's reamer must now be inserted and the hole cleaned out ready for the tail pin. If this fitment be obtained at this stage, the hole may be made the correct size and the tail pin fitted. When the fitting is complete, the pin may be put to one side until the violin is ready for stringing.
3The two saw-cuts for the shoulder are made as follows: On the face side of the violin body, at the junction of the top ribs, measure off on each side of the joint \( \frac{9}{16} \) in., and from the back edge at the central joint measure off on each side \( \frac{5}{16} \) in. Join these points with pencil lines, and carefully saw down into the top block \( \frac{1}{4} \) in. with a fine tenon saw. These are not the final measurements for the shoulder of the neck, but they serve to give an opening for the chisel when fitting the shoulder after the body is together, making the work much easier.
5Now put the body of the fiddle back into the mould, prop it close against the inside with strips of wood, both longitudinally and transversely, and put it to one side in a dry place until the back and the belly are ready to be fixed to it.
The computer misreads some letters and numbers. Where a name matters to you, read the scan.