Bow & Bridge Violin and bow makers, as the old books printed them

Scan 34

Violin making and repairing, 1927

8 lines. Read by computer on 18 September 2026. No printed page number was found. See the scan on archive.org.

1Marking-out.—The half-outline in zinc or three-ply wood must now be placed with its straight edge exactly along the centre joint of the back, and the half-outline of the violin drawn on the flat surface of the back with a steel point, exactly in the same way by which the mould was made; but in this case the button is also drawn in. Turn the half-outline over, and draw the other half of the back exactly opposite the first. By this means a complete outline of the violin back will be transferred to the wood.
3If the back is a slab back, a centre line will have to be drawn round it exactly as in the case of the mould, and the outline struck from this line. Be careful that the steel point does not deviate in any degree from the exact outline of the template. Nothing looks worse than an ill-balanced outline. For this reason it is perhaps preferable in all violin templates to use zinc rather than wood, because there is less risk of variation from the actual outline when using the pencil or steel point. Zinc templates are more troublesome to make, but they are worth the extra labour involved in their construction.
5Cutting the Outline.—The back must now be cut out with a bow-saw or fret-saw. If the worker is doubtful of his ability to follow the line exactly, it will be better to cut a little outside of it, and finish up with fine files and glasspaper. In each case the line must be exactly on the finished edge, and any lumps or hollows will spoil the sweep of the curves.
7Modelling.—The modelling must now be taken in hand. Perhaps as sure a method as any other in this

The computer misreads some letters and numbers. Where a name matters to you, read the scan.