Bow & Bridge Violin and bow makers, as the old books printed them

Scan 36

Violin making and repairing, 1927

10 lines. Read by computer on 18 September 2026. No printed page number was found. See the scan on archive.org.

1from injury. If they can be stamped with steel number punches, it will facilitate the work of modelling.
3Now, using inside-ground gouges, proceed to roughly model the outside of the back as follows: The correct thickness of the violin back must be gauged round the edge of the back from the flat side, using a carpenter's gauge, or one made as in Fig. 20, which shows one designed by the writer and found to be a very useful tool. The illustration is self-explanatory. This tool will be found extremely useful in purfling the violin, and its use for that purpose will be described in its proper place. The knife must be set to mark a line \( \frac{3}{16} \) in. from the flat side of the back all round. Now place the back on the diagram marked on the drawing-paper, and mark the points on each side where the various archings fall. This gives the points to which the archings must be fitted in gouging down the back.
5In conjunction with these cross archings, the violin must be modelled lengthwise by means of the long arching (Fig. 21). One end of this long arching must be marked (either top or bottom), and that end must be used at its proper end of the violin back, and not changed about from one end of the back to the other during gouging.
7A long strip of wood should be screwed to the bench, against which the back is placed flat side down to serve as a stop, against which the gouging is executed.
9Now proceed to fit long and cross archings exactly in their proper places, until a rough modelling of the back is worked out. When this part of the work is

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