Bow & Bridge Violin and bow makers, as the old books printed them

Scan 41

Violin making and repairing, 1927

8 lines. Read by computer on 18 September 2026. No printed page number was found. See the scan on archive.org.

1Get the shape of the model firmly fixed in the mind, and, cautiously using the planes, endeavour to make the back as graceful and well balanced as possible. Do not touch the edges in any circumstances, and leave the four corners thick.
3When this process is satisfactorily accomplished a hollow groove must be carefully gouged round the violin about \( \frac{1}{4} \) in. from the edge. First run a pencil line round, leaving the corners untouched. Go round the violin with a flat \( \frac{1}{2} \)-in. gouge, making the cut about \( \frac{1}{8} \) in. deep. Then gradually soften away the edges of this cut, until a graceful sweep is formed \( \frac{1}{8} \) in. from the edge to the highest part of the back. The object is to leave the edge of the violin raised up all round, and it is a most severe test of the fiddle-maker's capacity to do this properly. Wherever possible examine good violins carefully, and particularly note this part of the work. It is often a revelation in subtle flow of line.
5The corners must be worked out all round with gouges, planes and glasspaper, until the hollow is carried out all round, and the edges of the corners gracefully raised to the same height as the rest of the edge of the fiddle. Do not make the rise sudden, especially at these four corners. The effect striven for should be an easy, graceful flow of line all over the fiddle back, without any lumps, hollows or interruption.
7With coarse glasspaper rub all over, keeping a close watch to see that no part of that edge (which has been so difficult to obtain) is rubbed down. Damp the back all over, and go over it again when dry with finer-

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