Books › Violins and other stringed instruments : how to make them ; with numerous engravings and diagrams, 1906 › scan 149
Scan 149
Violins and other stringed instruments : how to make them ; with numerous engravings and diagrams, 1906
4 lines. Read by computer on 29 August 2026. Printed page 145. See the scan on archive.org.
1long accurately into the angles formed by the pin-blocks and the back, the first one at a distance of 2 in. from the bottom edge (A, Fig. 165). Then clean off and set aside for a day or two to dry.
3The instrument, which is now beginning to take shape, has yet to be strengthened by braces at the back and front. For the latter, cut a mortise in the front end of each block 1 1/2 in. long, 1 in. wide, and 1/2 in. deep, at D (Fig. 165). Take a piece of 1/2-in. stuff of the required length, and cut it to fit accurately into each mortise, and, at the same time, fit perfectly level on the back. The top edge of this brace at each end must be level with the lower edge of the groove B (Fig. 165), or the top of the fillet if that is used instead. It must not, however, be quite straight from block to block, but should have a rise of 1/2 in. in the centre, thus presenting a slightly arched top. This will give a convex surface to the belly, this being found to give a better tone and to present a greater resistance to the downward pressure of the strings. When the brace is finished, bore a hole through each tenon to take a 2-in. cut clasp. Fit it into its place, and bore a series of holes through the back into the brace (about eight will be sufficient) to take 1 1/2-in. wire nails or brads. Take the brace out again, and, after warming the parts, quickly glue tenons and the bottom edge of the brace, also
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