Books › Violins and other stringed instruments : how to make them ; with numerous engravings and diagrams, 1906 › scan 37
Scan 37
Violins and other stringed instruments : how to make them ; with numerous engravings and diagrams, 1906
4 lines. Read by computer on 29 August 2026. Printed page 33. See the scan on archive.org.
1so that the centre line of the paper outline corresponds exactly with the line on the wood. Fix with pins, and draw the outline on the wood. It will then be possible to see where to bore screw holes so as not to weaken the mould or interfere with the outline, and at the same time firmly secure the two boards together so as to form one. The best situations are indicated in Fig. 52. Countersink the holes 1/8 in., but 1 in. screws will be the extreme length, and shorter screws will be better if the countersink is increased. The hole in the upper board should be larger than that in the lower so as to draw the two boards closely together, the screws being, of course, greased. Once more face truly the board with the countersunk holes, thus obliterating the pattern, which was only drawn to secure safe positions for the screws. Now square and true all the edges, which in the case of the ends is most important. Square from the now true pattern face, and turn over to the back and plane down until one end is a trifle more than 1 1/4 in. thick, and the other end exactly 1 1/8 in., each surface and edge being smooth. This will give the mould 1 1/4 in. depth at the lower end, and 1 1/8 in. at the upper by final sandpapering.
3There is now the difficult task of drawing two patterns exactly opposite each other on a thick piece of wood. If they are not exactly opposite, the ribs will bulge or be hollow. Remember the wood is a wedge, not a solid parallelogram, and squaring must be done from the countersunk face, and not from the slanting face. Now draw a fine pencil line truly down the middle of the countersunk face, which will be the back or under surface of the mould, and before removing the straight-edge, firmly draw a sharply pointed marking awl down the line. Place the paper pattern with its centre line exactly over the line on the wood, its lower and wider end being 2 in. from the thick (1 1/4 in.) end of the wedge. Secure the pattern with pins driven in upright, and make a fine tracing of the violin pattern on the wood, taking care that the side with the f holes is
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