Bow & Bridge Violin and bow makers, as the old books printed them

Scan 79

Violins and other stringed instruments : how to make them ; with numerous engravings and diagrams, 1906

12 lines. Read by computer on 29 August 2026. Printed page 75. See the scan on archive.org.

1DOUBLE BASS AND VIOLONCELLO.
3Instructions on making violins apply equally to violoncellos and double basses, dimensions, of course, excepted.
5For making a violoncello, plane-tree or maple can be used for the back. Swiss pine is much the best for the belly, but if yellow pine is used the thickness should be slightly increased. The Swiss pine should be cut on the quarter, and jointed down the middle; if not jointed, use a middle-cut board. Sycamore is used for the ribs.
7Several sound-posts should be made and tried, and the one used that gives the best results. Begin with one having a diameter just admitting it, through the sound-holes, then trying those with smaller diameters. The proper place for the sound-post is about 1/2 in. behind the right foot of the bridge. See that it stands quite upright, and that its fibres or grain are at right angles with the grain of the belly.
9There is no arbitrary height for the bridge, as this should be specially fitted to each 'cello; 3 1/2 in. may be found suitable. For the best results a 'cello of heavy build would require a slightly higher bridge than one of lighter make. A rough guide, however, is to adjust the height so that the A string is about 1/8 in. from the finger-board at the nut, and 1/4 in. at the broad end of the finger-board; the C string about 3/8 in. at the nut, and 3/8 in. at the other end.
11The making and fitting of a bass-bar for a violoncello is a job for which a charge of 10s. or 12s. is often made. But the worker can do it quite well at home. To make the bar, get a piece of straight-grained Swiss pine as old as possible, provided it be sound; cut it 21 1/2 in. long by 1 1/2 in. by 1/2 in., plane it to the above size, then bevel it from 1/2 in. thickness to 1/8 in. Take the centre of the bar and make a mark on the 1/8 in. edge; take the spoke-shave and taper to both ends from 1 1/2 in. with a nice gradual, somewhat hollow, sweep to 1 in.; round over the thin edge and glass-paper it well. At this point the bass-bar is supposed to be ready for gluing into the belly; consequently, in roughing it out, the worker had

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