Books › Violins and other stringed instruments : how to make them ; with numerous engravings and diagrams, 1906 › scan 83
Scan 83
Violins and other stringed instruments : how to make them ; with numerous engravings and diagrams, 1906
8 lines. Read by computer on 29 August 2026. Printed page 79. See the scan on archive.org.
1JAPANESE ONE-STRING VIOLINS.
3The handle is screwed to one of the sides, and has an extension which is glued down to the bottom half-way as shown in Figs. 80 and 81, the latter figure being a half-size detail of the body, showing the method of framing up. Sections at x, y, and z (Fig. 80) are given in Figs. 82 to 84.
5The length of the neck of the violin should be about 3 in. to 3 1/2 in., and the peg on the machine head should go through half-way between the beginning of the finger-board and the end of the neck. The top of the neck is expanded out square at the end to give a better finish, and a machine head, which can be obtained at any music-dealer's, is used. In fitting the machine head, all that is required to be done is to drill a small round hole for the barrel to project through, and to screw on the plate (see Figs. 85 and 86). An ordinary violin peg is suitable, with careful boring of the hole, so as not to split the head. To secure the string to the body a small button is screwed to the bottom side of the body (see Figs. 87 and 88), those sold for handles for fretwork cupboards being very suitable. A small square of wood is glued on the inner side to form a better hold for the screw. The handle is at an angle to the body, so as to keep the bridge a good height. The wire string should be about 1/2 in. from the finger-board at the bridge end, and 1 1/2 in. at the neck end. All the wood must be well glass-papered. The glue used should be thin.
7In putting the parts together, begin with the bottom of the violin, and lay all the sides on, having the handle already screwed on. Two small triangular brackets x (Fig. 79) are glued each side of the arm where it comes in the body, to strengthen up the side and keep the handle or arm from bending when the string is being tightened. Then glue a small sound-post at a distance of one-third up the body from the bottom end, about 1 1/8 in. in diameter, and just high enough to keep the top from fitting down on the sides. The dotted lines under the sound-holes in Fig. 79 represent two small banking-up pieces for strengthening the face of the
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