Books › An encyclopedia of the violin, 1925 › scan 95
Scan 95
An encyclopedia of the violin, 1925
20 lines. Read by computer on 26 September 2026. Printed page 71. See the scan on archive.org.
1It is by means of these two instruments that he places or introduces the glue where it may be needed.
3In summer, two or three hours are sufficient to dry the glue, but in winter ten hours are none too long. When it is noticeably cold, it is well to heat slightly the pieces or parts to be glued before applying the glue.
5When a part of any kind has been glued, the leavings of the glue should be washed off by means of a brush dipped into the hot water of the gluepot. This little operation, which is no trouble, and which if attended to at once, does away with the necessity of a longer one, that of removing the dried glue from all those places in which it should not remain, should not be forgotten.
7MAKING THE MOLDS AND THEIR ACCESSORIES
9The mold is a piece of wood so prepared and cut as to make it possible to fix in it, in such wise that they form a single unit, the brackets, the corners, the ribs and the linings of the instruments.
11Figure 8, Plate 31, represents a mold as it should appear ready to receive the various parts which have been enumerated.
13In order to make this mold, one must begin to fashion a model resembling Figure 1, Plate 30, in every point. A tracer should then be taken, should be opened to the extent of approximately 3/24 of an inch and a firmly marked line should be drawn entirely around the model which is to be made. All wood which may remain outside this line is then removed by means of a fine saw and a penknife. This done, we obtain what is known as the counter mold, as shown in Figure 9, Plate 31.
15A piece of hard wood should then be taken (walnut is to be preferred, because it is a wood which may be easily cut or carved in any manner) and this piece of wood, well planed, should have a thickness of 9/12 of an inch along its entire breadth, and should be somewhat larger in its dimensions than the model Figure 1, Plate 30. The piece of wood which is to be made into the mold is now placed upon the workbench, and the "outside" or counter mold upon it. With a fine point the exact outline of all the contours of the counter mold should be traced on the piece of wood. Then, with a rule, measure off the notchings at top and bottom, AA, and the fourth of the two sides, B, as shown in Figure 8, Plate 31. All the unnecessary wood, that is to say the wood left without the line, should then be removed with a fine screw saw, and the work should be completed with knife and polishing stick.
17A condition indispensable to this work is that the trimming be carried out all around the mold in such a manner that in all the rounded parts, the sides as well as the mortises, the edges are on an absolute level with the surface of the mold.
19This explanation will be better grasped once the manner in which the new tool is used has been watched, for, properly speaking, the mold is nothing more or less than a tool.
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