Bow & Bridge Violin and bow makers, as the old books printed them

Scan 22

Violin making and repairing, 1927

6 lines. Read by computer on 18 September 2026. No printed page number was found. See the scan on archive.org.

1the strip of sycamore a series of parallel lines about 1/4 in. apart must be drawn, with square and pencil, across the inner surface, working from the plane edge of the strip. The outer surface (the side which fits against the mould) should show the finer figure, as sometimes one side of the strip shows a finer figure than the other. The squared lines are drawn across the ends to assist in fitting the blocks correctly into their position when that portion of the work is under construction.
3Several text-books state that the wood should be bent with dry heat. A better plan, and one which will save endless trouble and breakage, is to dip the end of the strip into water before applying it to the heated iron. The moisture prevents burning of the strip, and also assists the bending.
5Place the end of the strip on the heated iron, holding it in one hand by the other end. With the other hand place a small block of wood on the end of the strip, by this means holding it down on the hot iron. Apply gentle pressure on the free end of the strip, and gradually bend the material until a curve is produced, fitting closely into the corner of the mould at the top of the inner bout. When the fitment at the top is correct, take hold of each end of the strip and bend it in the centre slowly until a curve is produced in the rib, fitting the sweep of the mould at the inner bout. Heavy or sudden pressure must on no account be used. It is really a question of feeling the way round the iron in operations connected with the bending of the ribs, and if the above instructions are carefully

The computer misreads some letters and numbers. Where a name matters to you, read the scan.