Books › Violin making and repairing, 1927 › scan 23
Scan 23
Violin making and repairing, 1927
8 lines. Read by computer on 18 September 2026. No printed page number was found. See the scan on archive.org.
1carried out there should be no question of breakage, no matter how brittle or pronounced in figure the wood may be.
3Note the following points, which are very important. The ribs must not be too thick or clumsy. The iron must not be too hot. There must be no sudden or violent force used. The ribs must not be allowed to scorch or burn, and should remain damp until they are in position in the mould.
5Now cut off the superfluous wood at the other end of the strip, using the pencil lines as a guide to keep the cut square with the edge. Then bend, and fit this end to the other corner of the inner bout. The ends must go right into the corners, and the rib must fit closely against the mould all over. Next with a file bevel each end of the strip on the inner side to an angle of 45°, in order that the top and bottom strip when bevelled likewise will make a close-mitred joint in each corner of the inner bouts.
7Prop the rib just finished in position with a strip of wood placed across the mould inside, and proceed to bend the opposite inner bout in the same manner as the first. When complete prop that in position also. Then bend and fit the top and bottom bouts in the same way, squaring lines across each end as before. Each of the bottom and top bouts must be fitted so that their ends shall finish exactly on the centre line showing on the face of the mould, top and bottom. If one side of the violin is fitted first, the other side (so far as top and bottom bouts are concerned) may be sprung into position in the mould, cutting them of such a
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